One of the most popular goalie modifications around, the skate lace pocket!
In recent years, we've seen the rise of the skate lace pocket for goalie gloves of all varieties, with some manufacturers making them a stock offering over standard cord. Not all pockets are made equal however, and in this entry I will show you my preferred method for lacing.
As a CMA, any modification you preform on your equipment is at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damages, mistakes, or issues that arise from you tinkering. That said, this is an easy enough procedure and a great way to dip your toe into mods. Take your time and pay attention to the lacing direction and you will have a great pocket. If you find yourself in too deep with your mod or have a time crunch and can't try it on your own, give me a shout! I can get you fixed up with a nice new pocket, check out https://www.ericksongoalie.ca/shop for all the lacing options I offer.
First things first, you'll need a full set of new hockey skate laces. Any will do, be it waxed or unwaxed, coloured or plain white 'ref's lace'! I recommend getting the 120" laces, you will have at least 12" leftover (and usually much more) but they all cost the same and it's better to have extra. If you have a double T, you can use the leftover for this, which I will cover in a future entry.
My personal preference for lacing is waxed, as it seems to hold it's shape a little better and doesn't fray as easily - but as you will see in the example, the process is just the same for all styles. Quick aside; there was once a large discourse on the goalie web about wax vs. standard vs. lace in regards to absorbing the puck and one being the superior choice. In my experience, if there is a difference, it is negligible. My opinion is that the way it is laced is what creates the advantage, not the lace itself. I digress.
Let's get started
Begin by threading the anchor end of skate lace through the same hole as the last loop of binding cord closest to the base of the T. Only go under the first layer of the glove, not all the way through like the binding cord. Pull enough through to make a knot and tuck this knot back underneath, as shown in the fourth picture. Pull back the slack so the knot is now taught against the hole.
(Click any of the photos in the slides to get a bigger preview)
Next, take the other end of your lace and begin to thread through the holes in the T and up towards the 'spine' of the T. Always go through the inside edge first, pulling up towards the outside of the glove (this applies to both sides, though they are opposite directions). You will generally use all of the holes, there will usually be three. For gloves with more, you can still thread through them or skip any additional holes. Ensure the lace is staying flat and there are no twists as you pull. This row can be somewhat snug against the T, but don't go crazy.
Moving back down, continue to only thread under the previous row of lace. The loops should be consistent in size and tension. I used my fingers to hold the loops as I adjust slack and there is just a slight 'snug' feel around the knuckle (I have average hands, so adjust as you deem necessary). A slightly too tight pocket will be better than too loose, but aim for that perfect balance. The 'spine' of the T should retain it's shape naturally and NOT be pulled down by the pocket lacing at all. See the next series of photos for examples of this.
KEY POINT - you will skip the first loop on the T edge on most gloves to maintain the correct looping pattern.
Continue to your next row by threading the lace under the next loop of binding cord and back up towards the T. Remember to keep the lace flat and go under the previous loop, this will keep your pocket consistent and looking nice!
TIP - After the T edge row (and at the base), every row will consist of two loops and the 'anchor'- either the T or the binding lace. 3 steps for every row.
Use your hand/fingers while threading through a loop to keep the lace flat and prevent binding or the loop from twisting.
As you approach the final few holes on the T, check how many binding lace loops you have left. They don't always match up and you may have to alter the pattern at this point. You can deviate from the 1-2-3 pattern here as well, sometimes you do not have enough space to get both loops in and that is a-ok by this point as there is no possibility of compromising the pocket here. Depending on how many loops and holes, you may end the lacing at the loop side or on the base of the T - both are fine and it all depends on the construction of the glove. Ensure a consistent pattern to complete the lacing.
FINAL STEP - Last but not least, make square knots to tie the laces together. If you anchor through the base of the T going up (to the top side), you can make a simple knot if preferred, provided it does not pull back through. I choose the square knot when possible for aesthetics and a stronger knot. For either option, always make a very snug knot and hit the centre of it with a dab of super glue. I like to use Gorilla Glue Gel, it does not run and doesn't degrade over time.
And that's it! You've got a sharp new mitt and laced to my particular standards! How did you do? Tag me in your photos online @egerepairco on Facebook and Instagram.
happy tending,
mek
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